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Published: Tuesday, 18 October 2022 00:12
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Bank Accounts in USA:

This section deals with opening bank accounts in USA. When I say banks, it includes Credit Unions too.

First of all, having bank accounts and then having any money in it, is for suckers. You can thank FED for that. In an open market (not the one controlled by FED), interest on deposits would be very close to the GDP growth, since GDP growth is basically money expansion. So, if all the other money in the system expanded by a certain %, your principal should also expand by same % to be fair to you. So, interest rates will be at least as much as GDP growth in a free market. Most of the times, people will be willing to pay a premium over the GDP rate to any money you lend them, but if FED can print and lend them money at much lower rates, then of course no one needs to come and get money from you at a higher rate. They will just get it from the FED !!

As of 2018, there is about $10T in bank deposits in USA, and the banks pay less than $100B in interest to customers. As we have nominal GDP growing at 5% a year, that means we should get about $500B in interest on that $10T in deposits, but customers get only $100B or so. Remaining $400B is our money, that FED is indirectly stealing out of our bank accounts and giving it to the banks. Assuming there are about 100M families in USA, each family is losing $400B/100M = $4K every year. So, every family's goal should be get their fair share of $5K from the banks. Since we can't have a bank to pay us 5% interest rate, we have to get creative to claim our $5K. In following sub sections, I'll list deals to claim it back. I keep it as a target for my family to hit $5K per year in bank bonuses and interest. It's easy to hit that, if you follow all our bank deals below every year, opening and closing 8-10 accounts per person every year, which will yield you $3K - $4K per year. To top off that, open a very high interest paying kasasa account, that can net you $1K per person per year. We'll make sure each person with an SSN can get at least $2.5K back in interest+bonus from banks+CU each year. As a family of 2 adults, we can net $6K-$8K in bank bonuses every yr + $5K in bank interest (on $100K of deposits in bank or brokerage a/c). That will get us close to $10K in net income after taxes. 

NOTE: FED will eventually get all bank deposit rates to 0% and even to negative interest rates to keep stock and housing market afloat. There is no other way to make that happen, other than with interest free money on debt. The only reason to put little money in banks is to pay your everyday bills, and to move that money around to get sign on bonuses.

Bank Accounts:

There are 3 kinds of bank accounts:

  • Savings Account: Savings account pay you higher interest rate, but you are limited to making 6 withdrawals a month. They also don't offer check books.
  • Checking account: Checking account pay you lower interest rate, but you can make unlimited withdrawals a month. They do offer check books.
  • Money market accounts: These are new kind of accounts which give you best of both world. They give you higher interest rate similar to savings account, but offer perks of checking account, as no withdrawal limit, check writing, etc. Different banks advertise it differently, most of them classify it as savings account. You can think of these accounts as a different kind of savings account.

All the above accounts are the same when it comes to paying interest, as In the current environment, all of these accounts pay you close to 0% in interest.

Opening bank accounts is very easy, and 99.9% of the time you can open it all online w/o ever stepping into a bank. However, you should always look for a bonus before you open the bank account. Some banks will offer you higher interest rate as a promotion.However those rates are valid for a short period of time, or can change at any time. One good website for finding highest rates or bonuses is: Dr of credit . Other accounts to consider, which give decent interest rates or sign on bonus are listed on this great website hustlermoneyblog . One more website to look on is depositaccounts.

DoC Link for all info you need to know for Bank Bonus (Very good material explaining everything) => https://www.doctorofcredit.com/bank-accounts/

Many of the offers are expired or don't exist in links above. Dr of credit is more particular about updating offers, but confirm with the bank directly for any offers. Trouble with most bank deal websites is that they never show you the highest rates offered by a bank on a given date, but will instead show you 100's of banks giving mediocre rates. Most of the offers that I show on my site are ones that I gathered from people comments on the websites above. Dr of credit website is the most up to date and reliable so far. They put any deal out there, irrespective of whether they are getting commission or not. 

All banks tax you on bonus and interest, so your real return is lot lower.

Buying Checks for banks:

Some banks will offer you check writing facility while some won't irrespective of type of account. They may offer you free checks or may charge you for checks. Walmart charges around $12 for 100 checks (with shipping included), and that's the cheapest option to get your checks (12 cents per check). If you buy more than 100, then it will be even cheaper. In case your bank charges you more than $12 for 100 checks, head to https://www.walmartchecks.com. Check with your bank though to confirm that will honor those checks from walmart. I still use checks from walmart for all of my banks, and it allows you to withdraw your money from your bank at any time, and in any amount. This is helpful since many online banks have a lot of restrictions around withdrawing your money. They become more like a CD in absence of a check writing facility. Do not waste your time looking for better "check book" deals, as most of these "check printing" companies advertise a lower rate than walmart, but eventually after adding fees, etc, they are always higher than walmart's prices.

Credit check:

Some of the banks run your credit in order to open your account. You are opening a deposit account, where you, the customer, is giving money to the bank. So, why do banks need to do a credit check? Sometimes they do "hard pull", which hurts your credit score (hard pull is the same kind of credit check that credit card companies do when you open a credit card). A "soft pull" is OK as it doesn't hurt your credit score. So, when ever you open a bank account, ask them if they run a credit check, and if they do, whether it's a "hard pull" or "soft pull". Avoid banks which do a hard pull, as that extra interest is not worth the "hard pull".

Now coming to our original question: Why do banks do a "hard pull" - reason is simple - they want to sell you their products down the line (credit cards, insurance, mortgage, etc). So, under the pretext of opening the account, they want to know your financial and credit situation, so that you can be marketed effectively !! It's not your money they are interested in -it's your data that is more valuable to them.

Bank Insurance:

In USA, there is government insurance provided on the money you deposit in banks or credit unions. For banks, insurance is provided by www.fdic.gov, while for credit unions, it's provided by www.ncua.gov. They both provide insurance in case of bank failure. Any amount up to $250K for single account and up to $500K for joint account is covered. Remember many banks fail in USA every year (though very few have failed in times of prosperity as 2015-2020). So, never ever have more than $250K for single accounts or $500K for joint account at any bank. If you start reaching that limit, spread the money across multiple banks, and start putting the money in S&P500 ETF or something similar.

Whenever you want to open account at any smaller bank, always go to fdic or ncua website and search for that bank. Look at that bank website link, and follow bank's website from the link here. Make sure that the link is pointing to the bank that you are considering. Bookmark this link, and always this link, instead of using links from some email. It's hard to have a fake bank setup a website and not get caught by the banking officlas, but it's better to play safe.

Not only fdic and ncua websites lists the bank/CU general info, they also show all their past financial information. So, it's good info to know. If the bank is too small with very few branches,  they may give you a hard time with your account activity, since they may be monitoring a lot of these things manually. I usually don't go with very small banks.

Below links allow you to search for your bank/CU using their name, FDIC/Charter number or via their address, etc. Your bank better show up on one these 2 sites, or it's fake. Many times, you will see a lot of different links showing up for the same bank/CU. That's OK. They will all have the same fdic/charter number, even though their address, website might be different. You can always call your bank/CU and ask their fdic/charter number and confirm it on govt websites below.

Bank: https://research2.fdic.gov/bankfind/

CU: https://mapping.ncua.gov/ResearchCreditUnion.aspx

NOTE: At both Banks/CU, you can get maximum coverage of up to $1.25M by having joint account and different kinds of accounts. There are calculators provided on these websites. You should never get to these limits, as putting money in bank is for losers. Below are the calculators anyway:

Bank:  https://edie.fdic.gov/calculator.html

CU: https://www.mycreditunion.gov/insurance-estimator

Bank Offers:

There are 2 kinds of offers that you get from banks. One is the Bank Bonus and the other is interest rate offer. What offers to chase depends on current interest rate environment. Before the dawn of new age in 2008, you would get decent rates in banks (still under nominal gdp growth rate, but nothing close to 0). Since 2008, 99% of the banks/CU give you deposit rates close to 0, and there is no hope for the foreseeable future that rates will ever go to much more than 0%.

It's 2020, and it's certain that long term direction of bank interest rates is to go down. So, it's no point trying to chase rates. Most large banks offer 0.01% interest rate on their checking and savings account. Why not keep it simple at 0% interest rate? Maybe they don't want their computers to sit idle. If you shop around a lot, you may be able to find few banks offering 1%. If you were to live on money deposited in your bank account at 1% interest rate, and assuming $60K in expenses every year (home rental, car, health insurance, food, utilities, etc), you would need to have $10M in a bank account paying highest interest rate of 1%. And with that you may barely be able to survive. So, no one can survive saving money and lending it out. First of all, 99% of can never save that kind of money in their lifetime, and secondly, FED is lending money for free, so no one will pay you anything to take that money from you.

A decent rate that you should be targeting would be something at least 1% over the short term treasury rate for 1 year bills/notes. 

As of 2020, short term interest rates are 0%, and 30 year treasury are close to 1% So, consider yourself lucky to get 1%. And since these rates are lower than what US stock market pays you in dividend (it's close to 1.8% dividend for last 15 years), it's a no brainer that you shouldn't put any money in bank accounts for the sake of earning interest.

 

Churning Banks accounts:

Banks which give you bonus for opening accounts are especially lucrative. You can repeat the process again and again. Not all banks allow you to churn bank a/c. Churning means closing your a/c once you get the bonus and then opening it again whenever the new bonus comes along. Below is list of all churnable a/c:

DoC => https://www.doctorofcredit.com/a-list-of-churnable-bank-account-bonuses/

 

Chex System:

How many bank accounts should you open in a year? A safe number would be no more than 8-10 accounts a year. Why is that? Well, just as credit cards get reported to credit rating companies, bank accounts also get reported to Chex systems (similar to credit card reporting companies). Chex only reports bank a/c that you close (NOT how many you open). So more bank accounts you close, higher is the risk you carry of getting denied by future banks. This applies only to banks that use ChexSystems when you apply for a bank account with them. Some banks are not Chex Sensitive (i.e don't use Chex Systems at all). Such banks are always safe to apply. Whenever you see a link for bank offer, look thru the details or look in comments section to find out if the bank is Chex Sensitive. This is the main reason, why we should hit for a high bonus of > $400 with each bank a/c, as you have only limited number of 8-10 shots in your arsenal.

There is a nice little intro about ChexSystems here: https://www.doctorofcredit.com/an-introduction-to-chexsystems-inc/

Also, some banks don't pull Chex or are not sensitive to it, so opening these bank a/c should be prioritized as they don't count in your Chex reports. For ex, opening Chase a/c is safe as no Chex reporting done. Below 2 links reports banks/CU that DO or DONT report Chex (both links are old from 2016, so data may have changed. Read thru comments to get more updated data):

 

Referral bonuses for Banks:

A lot of banks now-a-days offer refrral bonuses if you use a referral to join banks. Many times they provide info regarding refrral on their website or to their existing customers. All you have to do is to send a referral link to your friends or family, and they need to signup using that link. Many times, both the refrrer and the person being refrred get the bonus, so there's nothing to lose in using a referral link. If you ever see a refrral for any of the bank offers here, feel free to email me.

Apart from banks using their their own referral system, one of the other most popular service being used for referral purposes is referlive. I had seen it advertised at many banks (on their websites and in branches), and used to think of it as fake. However, it's real, and they pay you the bonus pretty quick, once you meet the requirements. You don't even need to contact your bank in case there are issues. Just call referlive customer service and they will straighten it out. Their phone number is: 1-800-925-2160. Their email is: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

This is their site. https://www.referlive.com

There is no info on the referlive site itself regarding what banks are participating, contact info, etc. You can find out if your bank is participating by searching on that bank's site, and if you find referlive on that bank's site, you can use that to send refrrals for that bank. Or you can goto referlive with bank name appended at the end of url, For ex, Amerant bank has refrral link as shown below:

https://www.referlive.com/amerant

There is nothing to sign up on referlive. referlive has a different login/password for each bank that it has on it's site. So for ex bank shown above, https://www.referlive.com/amerant will have a signin info, which you use to signup and then send email to friends/family. For a different bank, it will be a different signup link specifically for that bank.

Most of the times with referlive, both the referrer and the referral get the bonus. The bonus is in form of Visa/Mastercard, so there's no tax implication. Also, using this link doesn't affect your actual bank bonus eligibility, as it's a separate bonus, and nothing to do with referlive bonus. However, read the terms or go on to doctorofCredit website and look at comments to make sure. 

NOTE: If you ever need a referral for any bank, email me at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., and I can get you a referral link. Use that link to open the account at that bank. Apparently you can also self refer, by signing up as referrer with an alternate email and fake name (still keep address the same), and then use that link to signup for that bank. referlive doesn't verify identity or anything, it just sends out visa cards to address listed on site. However, using my referral link for the first time will get me the first referral money, from then on you can refer your spouse, kids, etc to make make money on both ends.

 

Bank Direct Deposit (DD) Requirements:

Many banks have DD requirements for earning bonus or avoiding monthly fees. What counts as DD is different for different banks. Sometimes a simple ACH push from some bank/brokerage may count as DD, while other times you may have to do a DD from an employer. Many times, it's not possible to have DD from real employer. Below is the list of all Banks/CU and what counts as DD for them. You can use this as a data point (DP) to see if you can avoid doing a real DD, and still collect the bonus (or avoid monthly fees).

DoC Link: https://www.doctorofcredit.com/knowledge-base/list-methods-banks-count-direct-deposits

 

Bank Initial Deposit as Cash Advance:

Most banks require you to make a initial minimum deposit when opening the a/c. Most of the times, you use your debit card or use your bank a/c details from other bank to xfer the money into this new bank a/c that you are opening. However you can also fund the initial deposit with your credit card. The risk with that is that it may show up as "Cash Advance" at your credit card company. In that case, your credit card Co will charge you cash advance fee and higher interest rates which may easily cost you more than $10. Below DoC link shows which banks initial deposit counts or doesn't count as cash advance. If it doesn't count as cash advance, it's better to pay using credit card, as you make free 1%-2% in points on your credit card.

DoC Link => https://www.doctorofcredit.com/does-funding-a-bank-account-with-a-credit-card-count-as-a-purchase-or-cash-advance

WARNING: My advice is to NEVER use your credit card for bank opening deposit. You may make a few dollars by getting 1%-2% in points on credit card, but even if 1 of your initial deposit codes as a cash advance, you will lose all your profits. I've made about $50 in a year using credit cards for bank's initial depoit, but then two of the purchases ended up coding as cash advance, and I paid more than $50 as cash advance fee and interest. Problem is no one knows if it's going to code as cash advance or purchase. You may verify from above link, but there's no guarantee as what was true yesterday will be true today. Chase Bank has a fixed 5% credit limit assigned as your cash advance limit, and you can't change that on personal credit cards (I verified this via talking to Chase Supervisor, you can only change the cash advance limit on business credit card). Once that cash advance charge is there, there's no one at any bank who can reverse that charge. So, the advise to the wise is => The profit from using credit card is not worth the risk.

 

Bank Interest/bonus taxable:

All of the interest or bonuses that you earn in any bank account is taxable at the highest rate applicable to your tax bracket. This is different than how stock market gains get taxed, which is usually maxed at 15% tax rate, no matter what tax bracket you fall in. So, you lose money both ways by putting money in bank - first, you get almost close to nothing in interest or bonus, and whatever little you get, you are taxed heavily on that. All of these policies are designed to hit poor people the hardest, and reward rich people.

There are 2 tax docs that Banks may send out for reporting this income:

NOTE: Stay clear of companies which send tax forms for Credit card bonus, reward points, etc as these are not income. You have to spend money to get these rewards, which doesn't qualify as interest income. It isn't even income to start with. Rather it's a discount on your purchase. It's akin to buying a $100 product for $10 on a website, and paying income taxes on the difference ($90) claiming it as an income, rather than a discount. Makes no sense.

 

Bonds as alternative to bank interest:

Instead of trying to find a high interest rate with a bank, you might be better off buying short term Bond ETF thru your brokerage accounts. They give you a better rate than 99% of the banks. However, if FED keeps interest rates at 0%, then those Bond ETF will also give you close to 0%. However, when FED raises rates to > 1%, then you get a higher interest rate with those Bond ETF, than with any bank. These bonds carry almost zero risk when invested in ultra short term (i.e < 1 year maturity). See in "Bonds" section for more details.

 

 

Conclusion:

Never chase interest rates at banks, as rates are down for last 15 years starting 2008. They will remain down for ever, since there's no way out. Best is to go for bank bonus. A $500 bonus with $25K or $50K deposit pays you way more than what a highest paying bank with 1% APR will ever pay you.  For general purposes (i.e regular bank to hold your day to day money), look for a decent rate (even if it's not the highest out there). This will make sure you are at least making some money while the money is idling. Any money you put in banks is little money lost every day, until you lose 90% of your money in 1 generation (30 yrs). Bond ETF provide an alternative, and bleed less than bank a/c, but nevertheless you still end up losing almost all your money even with a bond ETF. Look in following sub sections for Bonds/Stocks and keep hunting !!

UPDATE 2024: Bank interest rates have gone up since 2023. For all of 2023 and 2024, rates in select banks have been > 5%. In 2025, rates have held steady at 4%-4.5%. So, at least you haven't lost much money keeping money in bank. But it can never match stock market, and when the rates go down (which they eventually will), you will again be stuck in the same place, as all assets will just skyrocket, taking the GDP higher with it too !!

 


 

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Published: Thursday, 13 October 2022 18:23
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DIY: Septic system

Even though the title says DIY, it's not that you build it yourself. Septic systems are built by the builder, by subcontracting to some septic company. But the repairs of septic system are very expensive since it's a messy job. So, we'll try to do the repairs ourselves, and also do the maintenance so we don't have expensive repairs down the road. See the section on "utilities". Septic systems are only needed for houses that don't have waste water services provided by the city. The community I've in need septic system to be installed.

 

Septic System Installation:

Here are 4 videos going thru the installation of Septic system for a new house:

Part 1: SIMPLE DIY Grey Water System | Septic System Install | Part 1 => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnaD85IS1gE

Part 2: Unusual WAY to Dig for a Septic Tank | Septic System Install | Part 2 => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVDznapIbQw

Part 3: How to INSTALL Your OWN Septic Tank | Septic System Install | Part 3 => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8YpYmGTigI

Part 4: LEACH Field Installed | Septic System Install | part 4 => https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F80WdWd71p0

 

Maintenance:

 

Repair:

For my lift station, here are the repairs that are DIY

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Published: Wednesday, 12 October 2022 20:28
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Utilities

When all buy or rent a house, all utility lines come to your home. This may not be true if you are living off-grid, i.e a no place so far from city, where the city or private companies don't provide any of these utilities. Providing these utilities cost a lot of money, and is recovered from you in form of utility bills and other property taxes. The main utilities include the following:

  • Electricity: This is provided by the power company. Most of the time, it's provided by the City. City is the transmitter of electricity, though it may be generated by private companies too, which sell it to us. If you are off grid, you generate your own electricity via wind or solar panels, and keeping a generator as backup.
  • Gas: This is natural gas used for cooking or heating your home. In countries like India, you buy separate cylinders which come preloaded with LPG. Over here, the city or private company lays gas pipes to bring gas to your home. If you are living off grid, you need to have a big tank outside your home which can store gas. You ask the Gas company to fill it, whenever you are running out of it. This costs lot less than having city supply gas to you via their gas lines. In USA, you will find mostly these 2 gases:
    • Natural Gas: Natural gas is primarily Methane (hydrocarbon with one carbon atom), and is the most used gas for residential gas lines. It's cheaper than electricity for cooking and heating purpose
    • Propane: Propane is another hydorcarbon with 3 carbon atoms. It's usually sold in tanks in grocery stores. It's more expensive than natural gas.
  • Water: Water is provided by the city. They lay those water lines which enter your home. Water is chemically treated in the water plant, which makes it very safe to drink. If you are off grid, you need to have a wellor a hand pump (old style, manual or automatic). Or have a motor which will take water out of the ground from deep below, and store in some good size water tank. This is the way most homes are India are built, where a water tank sits on the roof, and gets it's water via a motor pump which takes water from the ground. There's no water supplied by city. Although that is changing in big size cities.
  • WasteWater: This is the waste water that leaves your house. This includes water leaving your drainage pipe from using the shower, toilet, kitchen, washer, dishwasher, etc. This is not only water, but also poop, grease (from cooking oil) passing down the kitchen drain as well as anything else you shove down your drain. Usually city provides both services = water and wastewater. However, if you are offgrid, you may not get both services. In such  a case, you will need to have a septic system that can get rid of the waste water from your house. We'll talk about installation and repair of  septic system in a separate section.

 

 

Cost of utilities:

Cost of utilities varies a lot from city to city and state to state. I'll try to give a rough estimate of what I pay in Texas.

Electricity Cost:

Electricity costs around 10 cents/KwHr in Texas. The rates go up to 13 cents/Kwhr once you exceed a certain Threshold, usually 1000Kwhr. You have to pay about $20-$30 in fixed costs every month. Assuming you consume 1000 KwHr on avg every month, you have to pay about $150/month in Electricity bill. During summers, your Electricity bill goes to $200/month, but during winter it goes to about $100/month. In some cities as Austin, the City provides Electricity, while in other metros as Dallas, there are 1000 of private companies selling electricity. So, prices in Dallas tend to be lower due to intense competition, while in Austin, it's basically a monopoly of the city.

AC is the biggest consumer of electricity. In summer, it is used to cool the house. Some people keep their AC turned off while not at home during the day, and turn it on when they come back from work. There are lot of competing theories on whether there's any advantage to doing that. Some claim that you actually end up spending more since AC takes up more than 2X the power to cool the room, since it gets very inefficient when cooling the home that is way too hot. There's this nice article, where they show multiple scenarios. Turns out that you may end up saving at most 10% in electricity cost if you keep your AC off for 8 hrs or more during the day. See the graphs in link below. The data is still debatable. I've personally tried a lot of these experiments and frankly the savings are miniscule. I would probably leave AC running at 85F or so during the day, so as to prevent the home from getting too hot. You might save $10-$20 every month in summer doing this.

Link: Does turning the air conditioning off when you're not home actually save energy? Three engineers run the numbers (msn.com)

Keep fans running, since they consume much less energy than AC. Fans are from 20W to 100W power, and so consume about $10-$30 per year. Ceiling fans are most efficient of all fans such as Tower fans, portable fans, etc.

Fan cost => https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/home-and-garden/do-ceiling-fans-use-a-lot-of-electricity/ar-AA1fqktR

TIP: Ceiling fans should be set to run counterclockwise during summer, and clockwise during winter.

Refrigerators, even though running 24x7 consume only about 200KWhr per month. Electronics such as TV, phones, laptops, etc combined consume less than 100KWhr per month, so not much savings possible there.

 

Gas Cost:

Gas is provided t houses, since heating or cooking with electricity is very expensive. Gas costs around xxx in Texas.

 

 

 

 

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Published: Wednesday, 05 October 2022 20:55
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Gasoline:

You can almost always get 5% in rewards for gas by using a credit card that allows that. You don't have to buy a dedicated Gas credit card for that (sold by the Brands as Exxon, Chevron, etc). Your regular Chase, Discover, etc cards give you 5% during some of the quarters, while crads like Amex, Bank of America will have offers from time to time for 5% to 10% off.

Tmobile Tuesday gives you 10 cents off every week for buying gas from Shell. The offer comes every Tuesday. You don't need to be a Tmobile customer to get that discount. But you do need their "Tmobile Tuesday" app on the phone.

MAny grovery stores have rewards program where they allow you to take $1 off per gallon, when you rack up enough points buying stuff from their stores. Kroger is the most generous one here. They give you 4X points on many gift card purchases almost every month. You need 1000 points per month to get $1 off per gallon. Ths discount applies to first 35 gallons of gasoline only.

Load up on gasoline at that time. There are jerry containers that you can buy from ebay to store gasoline as reserve in your garage. Your car may take 10-15 gallons of gas, and remaining may be filled up in these tanks. These tanks used to sell for $20 in 2017, but as of 2022, I see them listed for $40 (almost double the price). May be time to look into other containers at walmart which may go on sale from time to time. 

UPDATE: June, 2023: => These Jerry cand are again going for $25, much more reasonable than $40 in 2022.

 

Oil:

Oil is expensive. Your car needs 5-7quart of oil for 1 oil change in your car. You should only need 1 oil change per year with newer vehicles that use synthetic oil. Cheapest oils go for $3/quart. You can almost always find Oil on sale. Look below in deals section.

Exxon Mobil and Pennzoil are two reputed brands. They both give you mail in rebate offers couple of times a year, where you can get synthetic oil for $1/quart or less. You have to buy it from one the retailers listed (amazon is NOT on the list, but a lot of other auto store chains including Walmart are listed there). I would suggest buying it from Walmart, as most of the times the cheapest price is at Walmart, especially when they go on sale. Your car probably needs 4 to 7 quart of oil, so cost of oil for your oil change is about $5 or so. Buying 2 of these 5 quart jugs will be enough to survive your car for a year. You may buy more and keep it stored too, as they don't go bad

The links for offer and rebates are usually on their websites:

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions  => Mobil 1 link for all promotions

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions.html => Pennzoil link for all promotions

 

DEALS:

 

 

2025:

 
 

 

03/01/2025: Pennzoil Oil Rebate: $30 rebate for 10 quart synthetic oil => Runs from Feb 27, 2025 - August 31, 2025

https://slickdeals.net/f/18154126-pennzoil-synthetic-motor-oil-rebate-get-up-to-a-30-mastercard-virtual-reward-card-good-til-8-31-25

Same as last few years, except that rebate is lower this year. Only "Ultra Platinum" qualifies for $30 rebate. "Platinum" only qualifies for $20 while all others qualify for $10. So, worse rebate than last year. Rebate is in form of Mastercard GC.

Limit is 1 per household. Lots of eligible retailers. Price at Walmart for 0W-20, 5W-20, and some other synthetic oil is $24 for 5 qt. So, $$50-$20=$30 for 10 quartz. However, walmart.com (or buy online and pick up in store)and amazon.com don't qualify. Best to buy it in store at walmart, and submit the receipt.

 

 

 

2024:

 
 

 

02/01/2024: Pennzoil Oil Rebate: $25 rebate for 10 quart synthetic oil => Runs from Feb 1, 2024 - September 30, 2024

https://slickdeals.net/f/17269471-2024-pennzoil-platinum-rewards-promotion?src=frontpage

Direct link to rebate site: https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html

Limit is 1 per household. Lots of eligible retailers. Price at Walmart for 0W-20, 5W-20, and some other synthetic oil is $24 for 5 qt. So, $$50-$25=$25 for 10 quartz. However, walmart.com (or buy online and pick up in store) doesn't qualify, change of terms since last year. Best to buy it in store at walmart, and submit the receipt.

 

 

 

2023:

 

 

 

06/01/2023: Mobil1 Oil Rebate: $6 to $10 per 5 quart oil, Limit 2 per household. Available at multiple stores for various prices => Runs from 3 months from 06/01/2022 to 08/31/2022

https://slickdeals.net/f/16673588-buy-select-mobil-synthetic-motor-oil-mobil-products-at-participating-retailers-get-up-to-20-rebate

Direct link to rebate site (you need to have an account): https://mobilpromotions.us/rebate/default.asp

Limit is 2 per household for a max of $20.  Rebate is inferior from last few times, as synthetic oil only has max $12 rebate, unless you buy the more expensive one, which has a $20 rebate.No brainer to gowith Pennzoil oil rebate. 

 

 

03/01/2023: Pennzoil Oil Rebate: $20 reabte for 10 quart synthetic oil => Runs from March 1, 2023 - September 30, 2023

https://slickdeals.net/f/16483510-pennzoil-2023-rebate-offer-now-active-get-20-back-3-1-2023-to-9-30-2023

Direct link to rebate site: https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html

The prices at walmart for 5W-20 synthetic is $30. Buying 2 will cost $60. With $20 rebate, it's only $40. So, in total 10 quart for $40 sounds too expensive, as these were closer to $1/quart for last few years. So, pretty much a regular price from 2022 and before. Would wait towards the end of this promotion, to see if any deals pop up at Walmart or any of these Auto shop stores. Limit is 1 per household.

UPDATE 06/07/2023: Price at Walmart for 0W-20, 5W-20, and some other synthetic oil is $24 for 5 qt. So, $12 cheaper now. However, walmart.com (or buy online and pick up in store) doesn't qualify, change of terms since last month. Best to but it in store at walmart, nd submit the receipt.

 

 

 

2022:

 

 

 

10/06/2022: Pennzoil Oil Rebate: $25 reabte for 10 quart synthetic oil. Available at walmart at $20 for 12 quart => Runs from February 15, 2022 - October 31, 2022

https://slickdeals.net/f/16080088-2x-pennzoil-5w-20-synthetic-5-quart-plus-2x-bonus-quart-at-walmart-after-25-rebate

Direct link to rebate site: https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/pennzoil-platinum-rewards-national-promotion.html

The prices at walmart for 5W-20 synthetic is $22 for 2 jugs of pennzoil totalling 6 quart (5 quart + free 1 quart). This is on sale, so you get 12 quart for $45. After $25 rebate, it's around $20 for 12 quart which is about $1.60 per quart. That's a good price. Different oil 0W-20, 5W-30 etc are at different prices, so you may wait for better prices. Make sure 5W-20 is compatible with your car before you buy this deal.

UPDATE 10/12/22: Walmart price for 5W-20 oil has gone up to $35 per 6 quart, so not worth buying any more. It will cost $35*2-$25=$45 for 12 quart, which is pretty much a regular price even without rebate.

 

 

10/05/2022: Chevron/Texaco Rewards signup - $1 off per gallon on upto 25 gallons:

Chevron/Texaco is offering $1 off on up to 25 gallons. Your car may take only 10-15 gallons, so either bring 2 cars or bring extra Jerry cans to get to 25 gallons. It's free money.

https://slickdeals.net/f/16078324-chevron-texaco-rewards-us-1-00-off-per-gallon?src=frontpage

 UPDATE: Looks like it's only showing a very small number of chevron/Texaco stations participating in this promo. There's no store participating in Texas.

 

 

07/01/2022: Exxon Mobil Oil Rebate: $5 to $10 per 5 quart oil, Limit 2 per household. Available at multiple stores for various prices => Runs from 3 months from 07/01/2022 to 09/30/2022

https://slickdeals.net/f/15873931-2022-mobil-1-rebate-program-jul-1-sep-30-receive-up-to-10-rebate-on-select-oil?src=frontpage

Direct link to rebate site (you need to have an account): https://acbincentives.com/mobil1/default.asp

Limit is 2 per household for a max of $20.  Different oil 0W-20, 5W-30 etc are at different prices, so you may wait for better prices. Buy Extended Performance as that has the $10 rebate, and will cost you the least. Advance Auto Parts (AAP) has separate $15 rebate promo going on, so may combine that with this. However, AAP prices are usually much higher.

 

 

 

2021:

 

 

 

08/06/2021: Exxon Mobil Oil Rebate: $5 to $15 per 5 quart oil, Limit 2 per household. Available at walmart for various prices => Runs from 6 months from 04/01/2021 to 09/30/2021

https://slickdeals.net/f/15204772-mobil-1-extended-performance-10w-30-5-quart-5-96-after-15-rebate-at-walmart?src=frontpage

Direct link to rebate form:

https://acbincentives.com/mobil1/pdf/2021%20PVL%20Rebate_Digital%20Tearpad.pdf

Limit is 2 per household.  Different oil 0W-20, 5W-30 etc are at different prices, so you may wait for better prices. Buy Extended Performance as that has the $15 rebate, and will cost you the least.

 

 

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Published: Monday, 03 October 2022 23:13
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VLSI Testing;

This section deals with all aspects of testing a chip. When a chip is being fabricated and ready to use, how do we know that the chip does everything that's supposed to do. One way is to use it the wy user is supposed to use, and check if you get expected output. 50 years back, this might have been easy. Now with billions of transistors on chip, it's almost impossible. So, we develop a mechanism to not only test the chip, but also be able to debug it, in case it malfunctions while in the field.

There are various ways to achieve our testing goals. I list a few of them here:

  1. DFT: Here our purpose is to test the chip when it's being produced. This is called DFT or Design for Testability. We have separate section for DFT.
  2. JTAG: On top of DFT, we also have JTAG that allows testing the chip, when chip goes wrong in the field, and we wnt to debug it while it's running. This helps us to debug exactly where things went wrong. We talk about JTAG also in a separate sub section.

 

More Articles ...

  1. JTAG
  2. Oscilloscope
  3. Debug Hardware
  4. Logic Analyzer